A friend from Sarawak had just returned from a family holiday in Langkawi. When I asked how the trip went, his response was tinged with disappointment.

For a place once celebrated as the “Jewel of Kedah,” Langkawi seems to have lost much of its former shine. This is very sad indeed.

I used to visit Langkawi at regular intervals in years gone by. I like Langkawi actually and each visit was pleasant and enjoyable as the island has a fair bit to offer even the most demanding local visitors. Otherwise, who would bother to make return trips, as I had done so.

Now, I think I can understand why my fellow Sarawakian was disappointed with his recent Langkawi visit. This negative feedback is not new, it’s actually quite common in recent times and there are valid reasons for it.

I believe that the Langkawi of 20 years ago felt more authentic, carefully cared for and genuinely welcoming. The Langkawi of today, while still beautiful, often struggles with maintenance issues, over-commercialisation and a lack of renewal.

Over the years, the island appears to have slipped into a state of neglect. Many visitors now speak of fading infrastructure, poorly maintained public amenities and tourist attractions that feel dated or underwhelming.

In essence, the disappointment my friend felt was not just about one lacklustre holiday, but about what Langkawi could have been had it continued to evolve.

The island’s natural beauty is still there, but beauty alone is no longer enough. A once-iconic tourist destination is now at a crossroads, waiting for the bold vision and sustained investment needed to restore its allure.

Above all these structural issues lies one key factor why Langkawi is no longer what it used to be and what it should be – the island resort has begun to bear the imprint of a more conservative, Islamically oriented leadership in Kedah under PAS.

While PAS officials insist they are safeguarding moral values and the island’s cultural integrity, critics argue that certain policies and public postures are chilling parts of Langkawi’s formerly open, cosmopolitan tourist identity.

Many of us will remember the tit-for-tat between Tourism Minister Datuk Seri Tiong King Sing and Kedah Menteri Besar Datuk Seri  Muhammad Sanusi Md Nor not too long ago. That episode is still fresh in my mind as it clearly illustrates the fall from grace of what was once Malaysia’s premier tourist destination.

It started with the claim by the Tourism Minister that some government representatives in Langkawi have allegedly behaved like “little Napoleons” by harassing tourists on dress codes and alcohol usage.

Tiong revealed that tourists have complained to his ministry about the abuse of authority by certain government personnel in Langkawi.

“They are not Muslims, but even buying alcohol and wearing shorts are prohibited. Hence, the Kedah menteri besar needs to explain everything,” he said.

Sanusi has denied Tiong’s claims and was quoted by a national news portal as saying that the Kedah government would not investigate the matter “as the claims by Tiong were unfounded”.

In turn, Tiong took the menteri besar to task for repeatedly issuing “arrogant” statements that the former deemed could tarnish Kedah’s tourism industry.

As the tourism minister, Tiong has faced a number of high-profile controversies but he was able to take them in and emerged stronger and more credible each time as a diligent minister who knows his job.

The high number of tourists, especially those from China and other Asian countries, bears testimony to Tiong’s hard work and capability in handling his portfolio.

Sanusi, meanwhile, remains true to form – quick to find fault with others and even quicker to descend into his trademark bluster.

It is a tiresome spectacle, one that adds little value to any serious discourse. For now, we leave Sanusi to his theatrics and move on.

For many foreign tourists, part of Langkawi’s charm lay in its relaxed, duty-free, almost “party-friendly” holiday feel.

When PAS policies are perceived (rightly or wrongly) to clamp down on alcohol or impose moral restrictions, the island starts to feel less like a liberal holiday escape and more like a regulated, moralistic space.

I’m not sure if PAS people understand that alcohol is not just about lifestyle – it’s a significant revenue driver, especially for international tourists.

Restrictions or negative publicity about alcohol could deter high-spending tourists, affecting hotels, restaurants and bars.

News of “tourist-unfriendly” rules, whether or not they are fully enforced, spreads quickly, especially via social media.

For budget-conscious or image-conscious travellers, the risk of being hassled or judged may be enough to choose other destinations.

In Southeast Asia, Langkawi now competes with islands like Phuket, Bali, or even newer halal-friendly destinations.

If Langkawi is perceived to tighten its social or religious norms, it may lose tourists who prefer less restrictive environments.

While PAS’s influence in Kedah is rooted in its sincere desire to bring Islamic values into governance, the tension between religious conservatism and tourism openness is very real.

Some of the policies, or even just the rhetoric, around alcohol, dress codes and “Muslim-friendly” branding may be eroding part of Langkawi’s appeal, especially for non-Muslim tourists or those seeking more liberal, leisure-driven experiences.

In this way, the PAS-led Islamic vision, though principled, could be undermining one of the island’s greatest economic strengths.

And so Langkawi, a once-iconic tourist destination and Malaysia’s pride, now stands as a quiet warning of what happens when ideology overwhelms imagination.

(Francis Paul Siah is a veteran Sarawak editor and currently heads the Movement for Change, Sarawak (MoCS). He can be reached at [email protected])